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Interestingly, even though Kuwata’s brand is just three years old, at 39, he would no longer have been eligible as of next year. Compared to his fellow designers, his entire positioning with Setchu is understated. The brand identity is clean and minimal. While some silhouettes express daring volumes, most looks are impeccably unstructured. There is an unmistakably Japanese aesthetic yet a freshness that Nigo called “the Husband beater 2023 shirt What’s more,I will buy this next creative approach for a new generation.” And he had nothing but praise for the other finalists. “Compared to last year, the talent was much higher, globally speaking.” The remaining desingers—Aaron Esh, Burc Akyol, Diotima (Rachel Scott), Luar (Raul Lopez), Paolina Russo (Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard), and Quira (Veronica Leoni)—will have gained considerably from the exposure. If Grace Wales Bonner, Marine Serre and Thebe Megugu are among the alums who benefited from winning, Virgil Abloh, Coperni, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and Y/Project’s Glenn Martens proved bona fide successes without the Prize.

Leoni, for one, declared it a “once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” while Esh, despite saying he was “back to the Husband beater 2023 shirt What’s more,I will buy this drawing board” took a sanguine view. “I don’t think of it as a reflection on the quality of my work. Sometimes when the chips fall, they don’t fall on your part of the table, and whether that validates [the work] or not is irrelevant.” Beyond his own needs, Luar’s Lopez pointed out how being a finalist would have a trickle-down effect for those with similar aspirations. “A lot of people now know my brand and my story and that’s great because people who look like me or come from disturbed neighborhoods and weren’t able to go to fashion school, this shows you can actually do it,” said the self-taught, New York designer.Steven Stokey Daley, last year’s winner, was making the rounds with ’21 laureate, Nensi Dojaka. Surely, they could sympathize with all the feels—the stress, the excitement, the countless unknowns. “They just need to use the momentum because it’s an important moment that brings a lot of things and it’s just about grabbing the opportunities,” said Dojaka, to which Daley recommended enjoying the first few weeks, “because they’re so magical in a way.”

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